The oddest comment of the night came when Ed described the smell of new vinyl as lusher than an Odeon original from the Fifties. Ed is the man when it comes to gastronomy, tunes and comics. Night time: Ed Motta's house in the shadow of Cristo Redentor, the mountain-top statue that is one of the iconic images of Rio. It was the stuff I'd love to watch on cable TV in a French hotel at four in the morning - pure arte - deep stuff. Milton is my all-time Brazilian musical hero, and over three hours he answered five questions. Eyes hidden away behind his shades, he told us his story. I first heard him on Wayne Shorter's Native Dancer and I was keen to talk to him about the early days with Lo Borges and * * that classic album, Clube da Esquina. Milton Nascimento has come a long way from his humble origins in the eastern highlands of Minas Gerais. Helicopters fly into Barra - an intense, Americanised, high-rise suburb populated by Rio's nouveaux riches. There's even a space where he holds sessions with young musicians. It's modern, circled by mountains and overlooks a golf course. We waited at the gates before being allowed up the steep road that leads to his house. Milton lives in the neighbourhood favoured by Brazil's footballers. We drove past the biggest favela in Rio, Rocinha. Tension mounted as we set off the next day to meet Milton Nascimento.
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